A big revolution in the beauty market – Interview of Aurélie CAVIN
How to emerge from a growing green market?
My name is Aurelie Cavin, Founder of Beauteclean.com, the first French website of clean beauty in France, created in 2019.
At the beginning of this adventure, I was persuaded that the quality of the product offer on the website would be a major factor in success. That is why, I decided that our selection must answer 3 non-negotiable criteria selection.
First and foremost, the bottom line of the concept, is based on a partnership with the INCI BEAUTY application specialised in the ingredient decryption. Each selected product must be validated by INCI BEAUTY in terms of safe ingredients list; it means zero “orange” or “red” classified ingredient, and with a real commitment for developing green packaging and as far as possible, green manufacture.
The second point is that, despite this “0% controversial ingredient guarantee”, the product must be as performant as a “conventional product” in terms of sensoriality. That is why I have created a group of “testing customers” in charge of evaluating the pleasure of using texture, parfum, results…
Last but no least, the brand must have a unique positioning in the market, original, innovative, making it possible to identify it among other different brands on the website from the customer’s experience.
Today, more than forty brands have joined this fabulous adventure and a large number of brands would also like to. Lots of others are set going and some are in progress…. In 2020, it has never been easier and quicker to create a cosmetic brand in particular, thanks to crowdfunding and white labels. In September, I received more than thirty brands’ proposal for collaborating. All of them have got the same positioning: “Green”,” clean”, “refillable”, “ecological”, “vegan” etc…. All recyclable-focused and confirming the “without” trend around skincare: controversial ingredients, parfum, allergens… A big revolution in the beauty market, for sure.
That is why, it is more and more difficult for us, distributors, to support all these new brands. But still, it is good news to increase the green market. The larger the offer, the more customer awareness increases, and the more our market grows.
Despite this, it also means more difficulties to keep our 3 criteria factors in success. For example: most of the new skincare brands are clean, “without’ allergens etc… “No time application” for day and night, “no gender”, with grey packaging because the offer on green packaging has been drastically reduced …. How could the consumer tell the difference between them? How to explain which one could be more adapted for them if they have all the same claim, the same sale engagement?
Moreover, the flip side of these ethical and new-born projects comprise an important cost, with a significant impact on distributors’ margin and customers’ price.
To make the long story short, because these new start-ups want to grow fast, because of a limited “financial time” to succeed, the marketing is based on very simple and minimalist communication codes which do not allow the brand to emerge from their competitors. And definitely, a one-ingredient-star product is not an innovative product, even if it is a new vegetal oil from a rare French and forgotten plant.
Please indie brands, note that a clean product with an ecological pack is the new normal in green cosmetics. Try to be more specific.