October 12-13, 2021 The Brewery - London The new Beauty Era | Better for the people and the planet

The very first and unique Clean Beauty
trade show!
Today, consumers' values have taken a new direction due to Covid-19 crisis, and Clean Beauty is more than ever central to our requirements and needs.


Join the first and unique professional trade show Clean Beauty event in the world! 

Clean Beauty in London – October 12 & 13, 2021.

Clean Beauty in London is the event you were looking for to source the latest innovations and to establish a charter of good practices with our experts. Take your business to the next level!

Conferences, workshops and suppliers’ innovations: the show will help you clearly define what Clean Beauty means to your company, the ingredients and materials to use, the ones to avoid and why.

No matter where you stand in the Clean Beauty environment, whether your products are sustainably sourced, vegan, cruelty-free, transparent or healthy, this new event is the place to be.


Did you know?

> NPD reported that the clean beauty sector grew 42% from 2017 to 2018

> Disko Agency revealed that 7 Millennials out of 10 are ready to spend more on ethical beauty products, and 73% will spend more for transparently sourced products.

> According to Mintel, 57% of shoppers would buy or boycott a brand depending on its ethical values.


12 conferences to come!

Worldwide experts, dermatologists, beauty brands, consultancy agencies, press and organisations membres will give their insight about these topics!

Regulations – Sustainability – Formulation – Packaging – Ingredients – Trends

End-of-life issues, Indie brands, price positionning, animal-testing certifications, Brexit regulations, “black-list”, ocean-safe beauty, plant-based ingredients, preservatives, and so much more!



We are delighted to introduce you to the 8 Members of the Steering Committee! The Committee experts are working on analysing various aspects of the Clean Beauty movement, its evolution and its development. Discover the experts profiles on our social media!

Georgia BARNES

Head of Business Development (non-food) at Soil Association


Founder of Trend Sourcing

Laurence CAISEY

Founder of Boostinnov & Founder of Freedge Beauty

Aurélie CAVIN

Founder of beauteclean.com


Innovation Director - Natural Raw Materials at Yves Rocher


Head of Global Sales at Noble Panacea


Environmental Responsibility Manager at Rituals

Dr. Amy SHAH

Integrative Medicine Doctor & Member of mindbodygreen


Clean Beauty, what is your regulatory framework?

No definition, no label, no defined regulatory framework, how can consumers trust Clean Beauty?

An already demanding European regulation

“Today, Clean beauty is not standardized yet. As there is no framework, no rules of formulation, customer expectations are varied, especially between the US and Europe where regulations are not the same” explains Anne Rutigliano, Marketing and Communication Director of Anjac Health & Beauty Group. In Europe, regulations are already very demanding with more than 1600 banned substances compared to what exists across the Atlantic. Nathalie Dessirier, Marketing Manager at MS BEAUTiLAB, points out “If we follow the European regulations, we are already on the right track to formulate products that comply with the Clean Beauty“. Since July 1st, 2019, an additional constraint has appeared in the European regulatory landscape with the prohibition to use the “free” claim, which was a selection criterion for many consumers and a way for brands to highlight the clean character of their products. According to Mintel, the number of “free” claims had increased in all geographical areas in recent years, with a predominance in the western part of the world (USA, UK, Germany) but also to a lesser extent in Asian markets. For example, paraben-free had a growth of +10.9% between August 2017 and July 2018 in the UK, +6.9% in the US and +2% in Asia. Today, Brands have to do differently to promote their formulations. “This is a very important paradigm shift. The brands concerned will have to focus on claims based on the positive effects of ingredients rather than on the use of “free” claims that tend to denigrate certain categories of ingredients” explains Lucile Manteau, Senior Manager Regulatory Affairs at Symrise.

The power given to distributors and to products deciphering apps

Distributors who have contributed to the diffusion of Clean Beauty are more and more becoming referents. Some of them, such as Sephora, apply internal labels such as “Clean at Sephora” which validates a selection of products free of 54 ingredients that the brand has judged negatively. In France at the end of 2019, Carrefour opened in the Marais in Paris the store Sources dedicated to Clean Beauty. “We have banned 75 controversial ingredients from the market in the products we offer to consumers” explains Valentine Fournier from Carrefour Group Purchasing. “Basically Sources aims at reassuring consumers” adds Pascal Clouzard, Executive Director for France. Product decoding applications also play this role and even become prescribers. According to the “Women’s Facial Skincare Consumer Report” by the NPD group (1): in the USA, 50% of women surveyed seek information online before buying a product in store. Mustela with #legrandscan (2) could not say the opposite: the iconic baby brand that celebrates its 70th anniversary highlights the scores given by applications (Yuka, INCI Beauty, QuelCosmetic, Clean Beauty) to praise the benefits of its formulas. This is certainly a way to modernize its image but also to recognize and validate the power taken by these applications. In the long term, could these apps replace a regulatory framework that is being settled too slowly?

(1) Women’s Facial Skincare Consumer Report 2019, NPD Group, Inc. Sur la base de l’analyse de comportements d’Américaines interrogées du 24 avril au 28 mai 2019, le rapport indique où celles-ci obtiennent des informations sur les soins de la peau, ainsi que sur le lieu où elles effectuent leurs achats et les facteurs qui sont importants lors de la prise de décision
(2) https://www.mustela.fr/nos-produits-notes-par-les-applis

Written by Régine FRICK

Clean Beauty, are you expensive?

Simple formulas, rigorously selected ingredients, necessary know-how, does clean beauty necessarily cost more?

A rigorous selection of ingredients

“The year 2015, according to Elsa Sassi, Marketing Manager at Pharma & Beauty Group, marks the beginning of blacklist editions among the principals. At that time, only a few players with a strong focus on organic and clean products were questioning us in this direction. Today, there is an acceleration of this approach for all our formulation axes, both in prestige and massmarket for small and large companies”. To meet this demand for products meeting the Clean Beauty standards, companies have reviewed their working methods and have strengthened their criteria for ingredient selection “There is a lot of work upstream of the formulation on the selection of ingredients that must be ethical, responsible, traceable and if possible multifunctional” explains Nathalie Dessirier, Marketing Manager at MS Beautilab. An opinion also shared by Pharma & Beauty Group “we have implemented a drastic selection of ingredients which requires a longer and more meticulous work in order to receive more information from our suppliers and to go beyond the requirements of the cosmetic regulation standards. However, the target costs remain roughly the same as for classic products and we have to find solutions to enter into these price targets“.

Valuable know-how

Moreover, “Formulating minimalist products requires special know-how if we want to maintain a beautiful sensoriality and great efficiency. Our proposals for solid cosmetics for all stages of the skin care routine required months of development,” says Anne Rutigliano, Marketing & Communication Director at Anjac Health & Beauty. It is clear that the cost of the product goes far beyond the ingredients used. For MS BeautiLAB, the observation is the same: “For certain categories of highly technical products such as mascaras and primers, meeting the requirements of clean beauty is very challenging and requires a high level of technicality and knowledge of the profession”. MS Beautilab has recently taken up the challenge by developing the 1st IncrediGreen Lashes mascara containing 99.7% natural ingredients and meeting vegan and clean requirements. Clean beauty by asking to get to the essentials requires companies to refocus on the business, keeping in mind as Steve Jobs said “Simplicity may be harder to achieve than complexity: you have to work hard to think right and keep it simple”. And that comes at a cost.

Towards a democratization of clean beauty

Nevertheless, according to P&B Group, “All brands, regardless of their positioning and price range, are now interested in Clean beauty. We are witnessing a real democratization of Clean Beauty without doing compromises on formulations’ stability & sensoriality”. And it is not so much the number of ingredients that will make the price of the formula but all the know-how that has been implemented to offer a product that meets the customer’s demands.

Clean Beauty will perhaps allow the cosmetics industry to put the expertise of the men and women of the profession back at the centre of the product’s value, an interesting way in these times when the world is asking to change.


Written by Régine FRICK

Clean Beauty, where do you come from?

For some years now, the big trend in cosmetics has been called Clean Beauty. Every brand is interested in it, every ingredient and packaging supplier is looking at how to meet this growing demand. But where does this movement come from?

It is difficult to define precisely the emergence of Clean Beauty as it brings together elements that already exist, namely consumer demand for environmentally friendly products and the need for safe products that respond to the resurgence of sensitive skin. Between 2002 and 2017, according to Ecovia Intelligence, worldwide sales of natural and organic cosmetics have increased from almost nothing to 10.2 billion dollars. At the same time, more and more people consider having sensitive skin. According to the Bioderma brand, 1/3 of the adult population would be concerned. (1) Clean beauty can also be seen as an extension of the Clean Eating nutritional concept, which recommends eating fresh, seasonal, regional, natural, unprocessed and healthy products. In 2010, an American nutritionist, Tosca Reno, began writing several books, all of which have become best sellers on the “Eat-Clean Diet”, which has since become very popular in the United States and has been relayed by stars such as Angelina Jolie and Nicole Kidman. There are 42 million hashtag cleaneating (#cleaneating) on Instagram. Clean Beauty seems to follow this path since between 2016 and 2019 the hashtag cleanbeauty (#cleanbeauty) has increased by 623% in the USA (2).

The American distributors, spearhead of the Clean Beauty

The American distributors played an important role in the Clean Beauty concept creation by selecting the brands on their shelves according to their own lists of authorized ingredients. One of the first actors is Follain (3) which opened its first store in Seattle in 2013 and then in Boston, New York, Dallas. Its founder Tara Foley explains: « My quest for a healthy life has focused first and foremost on the consumption of appropriate food. At the same time, I have always thought about what I put on my face and body. Not satisfied with the answers I received, I decided to go for Clean Beauty ». In 2019, Follain opened 10 more stores. Their list of banned ingredients is made of about thirty substances. Another major player, the US-based Credo (4) launched in San Francisco in 2015, has now 8 shops and spas across the United States. In 2018, the “Clean at Sephora” label further democratize Clean Beauty, widely distributed, particularly in the United Kingdom, Germany and France. Very recently, the Carrefour group opened in Paris a beauty store, called Sources, dedicated to Clean Beauty, a sign that the trend is becoming established in Europe. Asia still seems to be little concerned by Clean Beauty, but not for long…

(1) https://www.bioderma.fr/fr/votre-peau/peau-sensible-intolerante
(2) Mintel US Clean Beauty 2019 & Deloitte Millenial Survey
(3) https://follain.com/
(4) https://credobeauty.com


Written by Régine FRICK


How COVID-19 is Impacting Ingredients, Cleanliness and Shelf-life

While the COVID-19 (coronavirus) outbreak is affecting beauty retail, order fulfillment and manufacturing, Mintel predicts the virus will also have an impact on clean beauty ingredients, formulation, packaging and shelf-stability. Prior to COVID-19, natural consumers avoided preservative and artificial ingredients in BPC products. However, Hennigan predicted that with more concerns surrounding shelf-stability and sanitation across consumer packaged goods (CPG) categories, consumers will be more willing to accept these ingredients as long as brands provide evidence of efficacy and safety, both from a health and environmental perspective.

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31st State: The new skin care brand catering for teenage boys

A new skin care range designed for teenage boys has launched in the UK. 31st State was created to help soothe and clear red, irritated and spot-prone skin with formulas that are free from ingredients such as parabens, synthetic colours and microbeads. Founded by London-based Stephanie Capuano, a mother of two boys, the brand takes inspiration from California, where Capuano was born. “31st State was inspired by the beaches, deserts and forests of California. Where life just seems a little less complicated, a clean and effortless existence,” she said.

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Rihanna confirms Fenty Beauty skin care brand launch

Singer and entrepreneur Rihanna has confirmed that her popular make-up brand is set to expand into skin care. The co-founder of Fenty Beauty, alongside LVMH, first trademarked 'Fenty Skin' in March 2019, but did not officially address the brand extension until this week. The registration with the United States Patent and Trademark Office covers medicated and non-medicated skin care, soap, body care and personal care products, excluding colour cosmetics, perfume and other fragrance-only products, as well as related accessories such as kits, tools and applicators.

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Consumer Survey: Sustainable Packaging & Ingredients

Although many brands and stores are starting to offer the in-store option, most consumers (64%) are unaware of in-store recycling, and when in-store recycling is offered, only 12% always return empty beauty and personal care packaging back to the store for recycling. The data presented will show the impact recycling has on beauty and personal care purchasing decisions, including refillable/​reusable packaging. We’ll also take a deeper look at ingredients and whether sustaina­bility and “clean” ingredients truly matter to consumers.

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Seven of the Best Ideas in Beauty Sustainability

The consumer of 2020 wants to buy sustainable beauty products, and they see beyond the cliché of artisanal, organically sourced potions, lovingly wrapped in untainted craft paper. For them, sustainability goes deeper than packaging; it is about innovation for genuine impact. Beauty brands, from the freshest start-up to the largest global corporate, recognize this. They want to respond to this rising consumer demand, and they want to mitigate their impact. The challenge for many is knowing where to get started.

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Beiersdorf acquires natural brand Stop The Water While Using Me!

Beiersdorf has acquired natural cosmetics brand Stop The Water While Using Me! with intentions to jointly intensify the impact of sustainable skin care and further their commitment to climate and resource protection. Both based in Hamburg, the companies plan to develop joint sustaina­bility initiatives and create high-impact solutions for more sustainable action. The business operations of the brand will continue to be managed independ­ently.

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Avon launches Clean Beauty, recyclable product line

Distillery is a new skincare and makeup brand from Avon Products Inc., which “celebrates clean beauty without compromise by offering pure, potent formulas that deliver powerful results.” Avon says the line is part of an expansion and rejuvenation plan targeting new and existing customers who are looking for beauty that delivers results, but who are also conscious of the impact on the environment and respectful about ingredients. It’s backed by an “innovative Instagram virtual distillery” to create “an engaging journey to purchase.”

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What Gen Z and Millennial's think about natural and sustainable skincare

2 out of 5 surveyed exclusively use natural products while 4 out of 5 incorporate natural products. Gen Z is 20% more likely than millennials to exclusively use natural skincare products. 56% of millennials want to buy more natural products but don’t know of anything worth purchasing. 78% of Gen Z and 73% of millennials feel using natural skincare is important. 82% said they would switch to a natural product if they found one with results comparable to a non-natural product.

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Colgate launches vegan toothpaste in recyclable tube

Colgate is tackling clean formulation and sustainability in packaging with its new Smile for Good toothpaste brand. The product formulation, which uses 99.7 percent natural ingredients, is certified by The Vegan Society, certified organic through COSMOS Ecocert, and packaged in recyclable HDPE tubes and cartons. This follows the brand’s recent launch of a biodegradable toothbrush made from sustainably grown bamboo and packaged in recyclable cardboard, in a bid to reduce plastic waste.

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Clean Beauty, Clean Packaging

To succeed in the highly competitive Color Cosmetics market—which industry data reveals is currently in a cyclical slump behind Skincare—Kayla Villena, senior beauty analyst at Euromonitor International, suggests that brands should first focus on high-growth categories, particularly foundation/concealer, lipstick, and other brow and lash makeup products. The $9.8 billion absolute value gains from these products will account for 50% of absolute value gains of total color cosmetics in the U.S. from 2018 to 2023, according to Euromonitor data.

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21 April 2020 02:00 -

Dawn Hilarczyk is joining the Steering Committee of Clean Beauty in London! She is the Head of Global Sales for Noble Panacea where she spent 12+ months working to create and launch a completely new luxury skincare brand. Dear Dawn, welcome on board!  

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1 April 2020 02:00 -

Pascale Brousse, Founder of is joining the Steering Committee of Clean Beauty in London! Pascale has worked 25+ years in the beauty industry and is now considered as one of the top experts at understanding and analyzing green, clean and sustainable trends.

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18 March 2020 01:00 -

Dear all, As we navigate all together through this new unusual and scary situation, the whole MakeUp in and Clean Beauty in London team is joining me to tell you how proud we are to have you as our Beauty World Family. We all had to make difficult decisions to make sure ou…

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